All I Know

Chucks! and other thoughts on burgers

Restaurant Review

Chuck’s

237 S. WILMINGTON ST, RALEIGH NC, 27601 919.322.0126

www

also mentioned: Five Guys [1] , Char-Grill

In the late 80s, I worked in Arlington about one intersection removed from the corner of Glebe Road and Columbia Pike. In a crummy strip mall at that crossroads, there was a closet of a place that did two things: They made hamburgers and french fries. The bags of potatoes were stacked around, and there was a chalkboard that said where today’s potatoes came from. That’s pretty much all they did, and people would literally line up, day after day, to get them. I think they only served lunch.

I moved back to Raleigh in 1991, and many times thought that that business model could work in the Research Triangle Park, where, at the time, 30,000 people worked, but nobody lived. But I didn’t do anything about it.

So the news that there was a Five Guys in town brought mixed feelings, however long ago that was. They are absolutely everywhere now, and you’re supposed to faint with joy at the mere mention of the place.

I liked the old place in Arlington, and I like the peanuts and the general decor of the new places. But I can’t get the hamburgers to taste like anything, no matter what you order on them. The small fries is enough for the whole family, which is great, unless you are eating by yourself. And on top of that, it costs over $10 a head to eat there as of the last time I tried. We can eat at Taco Bell for about half that, and it has more flavor.

In Raleigh, you are also supposed to pass clean out at the mention of Char-Grill. I remember going by the old place on Hillsborough Street, back in the days when we had Chips instead of Hardee’s. But the fact that it’s Old Raleigh doesn’t make up for the fact the food is dull. I mean, it’s not bad, I just don’t think it’s worth the raves it gets. In fact I don’t think it’s worth a special trip, although I have several friends that will drive across the county to get to a Char-Grill.

Sunday, however, we went to a hamburger place that I can really get excited about, although I had never heard of it before: Chuck’s. Part of Ashley Christensen’s super-nova repertoire of dining spots, Chuck’s is located in a downtown storefront and features handsome minimalist decor that is a nice complement to the simple menu. Burgers have out-of-the-ordinary topping combinations. I had the Bradley Time, because someone had recently commended beets to my attention as a superfood. The hamburger was dominated if not overwhelmed by the blue cheese, which was okay, because I like blue cheese. However, Debbie got the High and Valley, and it was a lot more balanced.

The menu promised Belgian hand-cut fries, and as a cycling fan I hoped they would authentic Frites, which I have heard described buy not experienced first-hand. The produce arrived as indeed authentic Frites, not a pretender, and with some designer sauces instead of mayo as the Belgians love, or ketchup. I liked the roasted garlic aioli; the waitress said “The Comeback Sauce” was far and away the most popular, and described it with the word horseradish somewhere in the narrative. When it arrived I was a little disappointed that it was indistinguishable from the stuff they serve with bloomin’ onions at the Outback. Anyway, at our table we had about half of the sauces, and they were all fine. We had to re-order more fries.

The burgers come in 5 and 8 ounce sizes. For lunch, I went with the 5 oz., and it proved to be plenty (along with the frites).

Spicy ginger ale was among the drinks offered, so I got that, and it was indeed a nose-tickler to say the least. Others at our table got milk shakes which were served with a generous garnish, such as preserves on top of the peach milkshake, and cake on top of the chocolate. Cokes and other softdrinks are served in bottles.

I am looking forward to dining there again, but not for a few months. Chuck’s is not for the diet-conscious.

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